Climbing Everest From Training to the Summit

-Everest is a mountain that holds an iconic and revered place in most peoples' minds. How did it feel when you finally found yourselves there?

Ian

I had been at base camp before and had studied the mountain for a long time and knew what every area looked like. I had also read all the books, but nothing can prepare you for 26,000 feet and beyond. Everything takes a sharp dive above that height.

Graham:

We’d seen Everest in books and on film so many times that it was a bit surreal. We had trekked to Base Camp in 2006, so there was a reassuring familiarity up to that point. Our first venture into the ice-fall was obviously very exciting, but it was when we were in the South Col for the first time that it really hit me that we were really there. In a place so deeply steeped in history and legend.

-Can you describe the atmosphere while you waited for your weather window and also when you finally knew you were going to try for the top?

Ian

I really did not expect people to loose the plot and question everything, but the tension in camp was high. People on other teams were leaving base camp and one or two in our camp started getting agitated. The Chinese occupation of the mountain was frustrating everybody and it was clear to see. I played in the Everest Ryder Cup and walked a lot to stay shape and with a clear focused mind.
 
Graham:

At base camp we were certainly getting cabin fever, waiting for the weather and waiting for the Chinese to summit with the Olympic torch. As we moved up the mountain on our summit bid, our emotion turned from excitement and nervous energy; and then to fatigue and fear. As we waited in camp before heading for the summit at 9pm on the evening of the summit night, we had a visit from the expedition leader. He informed us that we need to be aware that there was a fresh body at The Balcony, which we might have to step over. This meant that in the last hour before heading off, instead of mentally preparing ourselves for the task ahead, we were thinking: “who was he?”, “did I know him?”, “was he using oxygen?”, “what age was he?”, “what happened?”, “was he going up or going down?” etc.

-Can you give us an overview of your own attempt

Ian

Too many people were on the mountain as usual and soon it will cause a major incident. I counted 140 people heading up the mountain on the 20th May on their summit bid. The ropes and route can take 60/80 depending on who you talk to. We left on the 22nd March and returned on the 31st May. The weather was very cold on arrival with temperatures of - 12 to -19c in the tent at base camp from the night of the 6th April. The seven weeks of climbing took it toll on most people, body wastage, coughing all the time, cold temperature, avalanches every day and the dangerous Khumbu icefall all play on the mind - for what is in store higher up on the mountain.